Following a rich experience in the desert of Wadi Rum and in the rocks of Petra, it is time to approach and enjoy water.
Red Sea, Dead Sea: nice wording but which connection? Adding the Sea of Galilee further north, all three bodies of water form a straight geographic line from the south to the north. In geotectonic terms, they are part of the Jordan Rift Valley which stands between the African plate to the west and the Arabian plate to the east. While both plates are moving north-northeast, the Arabian plate is moving faster. Consequently, the area was volcanic in the past and is still prone to earthquakes.
In fact, only the Red Sea contains seawater; the Dead Sea is a salt lake, the Sea of Galilee a freshwater lake. The Sea of Galilee and the Dead Sea are connected by the Jordan River; in turn, no water stream links the Dead Sea to the Red Sea. The Jordan Rift Valley entails not only beautiful bodies of water, but also plenty of historical and religious references.
Red Sea
Beyond its reputation for beach resorts and marine sports, Aqaba holds another, less celebrated asset: its bustling seaport. As Jordan’s only gateway to the sea, the port is the country’s lifeline, weaving Aqaba into global trade routes. To accommodate larger vessels, the container terminals are gradually being relocated further south into deeper waters, near the international border with Saudi Arabia. Watching the cranes and cargo vessels at work reveals an interesting side of Aqaba that speaks of movement, commerce, and connection.
As an inlet of the Indian Ocean, the Red Sea is surprisingly shallow in many parts: nearly half of its surface is less than 100 meter deep, and about a quarter only 50 meter deep. Such seascape has long fuelled the imagination; maybe a miraculous crossing on foot took place there.
It is widely believed that the northern reaches of the Red Sea mark the place where the Israelites, led by Moses, crossed the waters while fleeing slavery endured in Egypt under the Pharaohs’ rule during the Antiquity. According to the Book of Exodus, Moses raised his staff and God parted the sea, allowing the Israelites to walk across on dry ground. The Egyptian army pursued them, but once the Israelites had reached the far shore, Moses lowered his staff, the waters closed, and the Egyptians were drowned.
Over time, many different sites have been proposed as the location of this miraculous crossing. Yet, beyond the biblical account, no definitive archaeological evidence has been discovered to confirm the story of the Exodus. The film industry visited the biblical episode many times, notably through the iconic The Ten Commandments movies (1923, 1956, 2006).
We, too, did not come across any evidence that might corroborate the biblical account. Instead, we contented ourselves with admiring the red-hued rocks on the shore, enjoying the warm waters—though somewhat less so the abundance of jellyfish, thankfully harmless.
Dead Sea
Moving northward, we reach the striking shores of the Dead Sea. This landlocked salt lake, fed primarily by the Jordan River in the north, has no outlet streams. Lying more than 400 meters below sea level, it is the lowest salt lake on Earth and among the saltiest bodies of water in the world. Its waters contain nearly ten times the salt concentration of the sea. Yet this hypersalinity also creates a harsh environment where almost no plants or animals can survive.
Visually, the Dead Sea is a place of striking beauty and uniqueness. At first glance, it evokes a sense of desolation—its waters motionless, devoid of animal or plant life, and with little trace of human presence beneath the relentless heat. Yet, its shores are very scenic in their own terms, adorned with dazzling salt banks and blocks. Along the shallow edges, the receding waters unveil intricate patterns and shimmering details in a rich and subtle colour palette.
The Dead Sea is shrinking at an alarming pace. Its water level drops by roughly one metre each year, and its surface area has receded by about one third compared to the 1960s. This is largely due to the diversion of part of the flow into the Dead Sea from the Jordan River.
First conceived in the 1960s, the so-called Two Seas Canal was envisioned as a major infrastructural project to feed the Dead Sea with Red Sea water fetched in Aqaba. The plan aimed to stabilise the Dead Sea’s declining water level, supply potable water to Jordan, Israel, and the Palestinian territories through desalination plants, and generate electricity in the process. After decades of studies, revisions, and negotiations among the stakeholders, Jordan announced the project’s abandonment in 2021.
Bathing in the Dead Sea has been practiced for its health benefits for centuries. From a leisure perspective, it constitutes a very special experience, as the extreme salinity of the water makes swimming more akin to effortless floating. This uncanny sense of easiness and comfort strongly contrasts with the water’s aggressive interaction with the skin, not to mention the eyes and mucous membranes. It is a one-of-a-kind experience, best enjoyed with care and moderation.
Jordan River
Let’s change perspective. Although it is physically located in the eastern shore of the Dead Sea, the famous Madaba mosaic map displays the region seen from the western side of the Dead Sea. Dating from the 6th century, the marvel is constituted with about two million pieces of coloured stone. Jerusalem is represented in the bottom right corner of the mosaic. Further up, the Dead Sea with its main tributary, the Jordan River.
The Jordan River stretches over 250 km from north to south, flowing through the Sea of Galilee before draining into the Dead Sea. Today, the volume of water in the Lower Jordan River represents only a small fraction of its historic flow. In the 1960s, a series of water infrastructure projects undertaken by Israel, Jordan, and Syria significantly reduced the flow in the Upper Jordan River, affecting the river’s ecosystem. Water quality has also deteriorated sharply, with high salinity levels and pollution now widespread.
Baptism site
Situated near the point where the Jordan River flows into the Dead Sea, the Baptism site is a place of great historical and spiritual interest. On the western bank, it is known as Qasr al-Yahud, meaning “Citadel of the Jews,” while the eastern bank is called Al-Maghtas, or “Site of Immersion.”
The site holds profound significance in both Judaism and Christianity. According to the Hebrew Bible, the Israelites, led by priests bearing the Ark of the Covenant, crossed its waters on their way to the Promised Land. For Christians, it is the place where Jesus was baptized by John the Baptist, making it a key site of faith and pilgrimage.
Early in the morning, I find Qasr al-Yahud nearly deserted, accompanied only by birdsong and the gentle murmur of the river. The once-mighty Jordan now flows as a modest stream, its banks lined with tall rushes and tinted by the rich brown of surrounding soil. After a while, a few Ethiopian pilgrims arrive to perform a ritual immersion in the waters. I savour this exceptional moment, mindful of the care and reverence it deserves.
Despite its modest size, the river forms an international border between Israel and Jordan along its middle course, making swimming across strictly prohibited. I took a more legal route to reach the Jordanian bank. Once there, the atmosphere felt markedly different—less overtly religious, more shaped by formal rules, historical interpretation, and the careful management of the site.
Historically, the bed of the Jordan River extended far into what is now Jordan, but it has receded significantly over time. In the early period of Christianity, baptism ceremonies were seldom performed directly in the Jordan River itself. Bathing in its once-mighty waters was risky, and early Christians—often persecuted—favored more discreet locations. As a result, baptisms were more likely conducted in nearby springs or in a small tributary of the Jordan River at Al-Maghtas.
Pink Lake
To add a colorful cherry on our journey, we leave the Baptism site for a small but striking Pink Lake along the eastern shore of the Dead Sea. Under the scorching sun, the landscape appeared almost surreal. Of the series of water ponds, two glowed with an intense pink hue. This remarkable coloration is entirely natural: it arises from the water high salinity combined with other factors, including a salt-tolerant algae called Dunaliella salina and a specific bacteria. The algae, in particular, is responsible for the vivid pink tone.
Red Sea, Dead Sea—wild, colourful, vivid and unmistakably alive.
Cheers,
